Tuesday, September 11, 2018

Breakfast with the Beekeeper - July 13 (notice a trend)


Amitraz -  test 2weeks after treatment and again at 6 weeks to find more count.
We're going to have more so is the question lower mites and smaller hive effecmore robust with higher count.

Tony doesn't recommend Amstrad so he's now thinking 2-3% more loads may he acceptable. And maybe oxalic 2-3 times a year.
Recreational beekeepers gave the goal of strong healthy hive.

Oxalic is .5 grams per hive, Europe is 2 frames per hive. Vaporizer only kills foretic. With brood on, you need to do it four consecutive weeks. Doesn't seem to slow down laying.  Does knock down mites. Option t o use grain alcohol and of alic through bug fogger.

Tony uses strips in late summer, but can be used year around. Leave in 6 weeks max or replace. HMF can be generated, which is  toxic to bees.

Oxalic dribble with 3.2 -4% solution no more the 50ml per hive with tubing on end to be more accurate. Good treatment for  fall winter, only one time as it effects their exoskeleton. Use mixture that day so doesn't make hmf. Too weak it doesn't work, too strong will burn wings off. Dribble not effective in summer spring because so many mites are in broid cells.

Commercial keepers expect 50% loss. They treat 6x s year so what's the overall effect.

Winter food -- need 25 lbs. Warmer winter needs are higher cuz they flying to look for food.

1% was Tonya level with oxalic

Evaluate queen in fall, August to request in fall. Need lots of bees to split in fall. By 3rd week of January, hive should be booming. In January start with pollen if nothing is around. Count 15 bees/minute bringing in pollen that's good. 72 hours w/o pollen from production shuts down. Tony feeds dry pollen, about .5 cup to see how long they take to eat it. In a communal feeder. Like ulra bee. 

Better not to move frames this time of year. Take off top, 6-7 frames of bees, leave them alone.

Don't want to encourage too much brood production before February cold comes. Tony will put 2nd broid box in 3rd week of February and splits March 1st. If weather is cooperating. Just by feel. Then, be sure you control for swarming.
Splits take place in early, first week of March. In late February if really warm winter. By end of March, split only if you've let them have lots of room. 

Queen grafting on 15 February.

Raise your own queens in sprung, request with new queen in fall.

Seeing white wax-
To encourage them to store honey not make more bee, balance brood space, and spurring,  when they produce white wax, super the box. Bees in bottom box needs room. New super, with no foundation, bees won't go in there. So leave it off and wait till queen moves up, the start drawing out and then put queen below excluded. For honey, on double deep with room and a super produced honey.

Strong hive might make two 5 frame nucs, shake off bees to reduce pop in old hive, out queen in one of the nucs and queen cells in other nuc, and leav e queen cells in original hive. All this in first week if March.


Honey flow in our area.
Ty ty honey in January. but March april may in our area. Chinese tallow is made later.

With soon/new hatched queen, shall take a two week break to get mated but the go into honey oriduction.

Cold weather won't kill the bees, moisture, condensation will. Use shim or popsicle stick year around.
Tonya not a fan if screen bottoms, think about nature setting in the tree.

10lb in 1 cup water, makes hard. Make block, feed, on wax paper. In mold.
Use white sugar not brown sugar.

Florida State beekeepers assoc for link to lab.

Horizontal hives. Not for commercial. Dr. Leo sharaskin . And videos.  Low maintenance, go in twice a year.

July 13 2018 - Oxalic Acid for controlling varroa mites


Argentina super saturated version. Diane sanmatero researcher.
3-5% more loads reduced to less than 1%
Food grade glycerine
Chip board, like cardboard but chip is best.
Need pot to heat glycerin like wax pot.
Need dehydrate acid
Scale
Safety glasses
Glass measure or stainless
Baking soda to neutralize acid splash
7mil gloves
Stirring stick
Low temperatures so it doesn't gass.
Thermometer

1 part glycerin to .6 part dehydrated oxalic by weight

1000g kilo glycerin to 600 grams oxalic

Chip board of 30 point  1" x 18" , a bunch, some use shop towels

100 strips treats 20 hives.

300 bees or 1/2 cup bees in alcohol wash to count mites.

Need 30-40 grams per hive.

150degrees Fahrenheit warm glycerin, add slowly no splash. Raise temp slowly over 10 min.  Hold a few min. Let cool.

Goal is 19g grams of solution per strip

Put strips n large tub, add solution. In 24 hours all will be absorbed. Drain any excess over queen excluser.

Can be stored for a few weeks.  Too long forms hmf hydromethel ferferal which is toxic to bees. Two months is too long.

Use gloves.  Fold strip in half, hang over frame. 4-5 in summer in a brood box. 1-2 in winter. Works in a week, continues over month. Strips are good for a month or so.

Research shows no transfer to honey or wax from italic acid.

Used in Europe for 30 years. Good for heat of summer or winter. You can pull honey and treat. Our population goes down July and August.
Always use gloves even when removing as acid stays active all the time.

If you try this, keep great records. Sample before then at 2,4,6 week intervals.

Early spring treat is formic acid, then after honey us pulled, use strips of oxalic, then in late fall 3-4% oxalic solution dribble in fall when nearly broodless, or use something else.

Use this for lots of hives, like 200.

Vaporizer method is better for 5-6 hives. May be easier.  Need to do three treatments to break the brood cycle. More load of 2 after treatment.
Get a kill switch to stop from distance.

When storing hives, moldy is ok for need, but is stored wet and wrapped use paramoth to keep moths out. Replenish the crystal every 3-4 weeks. Sete up supers with rim, wrap and put paper plate in center with crystals. Slice open to replenish and tape closed.

July 13 2018 - Varroa Mite Information

3 mites per 1/2 cup alcohol roll us too high in June.

Prof. Keepers are treating 4x s year

Hobbyist  treat 2-3times.

Pinch drone to see if there are hitch hiking varroa

#1 vector for problems

Treat before flow in the spring, after flow in June or Julyand maybe in the fall before winter and leave it on for them.

Rotate your products

Apilife var is thymol -- watch for off gassing. Break into pieces and wedge in each corner.

Hopguard 2 is messy,  no more than 3x a year. One a week for 3 weeks.

Apiguard comes in pouch.  Need a rim so the beds come in to take it out. Block screen bottom and block entrance. Except for small one. Watch temperature range.two trays 10-14 days

Apivar strips use amitraz. Put them over the brood, 2 per hive.use nail between to suspend. Not heat sensitive

Mite away quick strips will kill in capped broid use strip 2 per super, lay it across, off gasses, use in spring or fall


Oxalic acid us not heat sensitive. Use now.
OVA. Sublimation 1/8 teaspoon or 1 gram. Use deep cycle car battery, need 12 volt. Or emergency car re charger from harbor freight.
Don't use during honey flow.
Best respirator.

Or search Randy Oliver and is for drench.

Honeybee health website has good info

June 20 2018


Went in quickly to add a honey super to the Southside high that was the Nook. It's built out nicely. There's a photograph that shows three different super frames all have been rubbed down with five Strokes on each side of a beeswax Patty to see if that encourages the bees to move upstairs. The older Southside high that was Tracy's is putting up just a little bit of Honey hardly anything at all. The might seem to be under control when I went to the north side of things I decided to move the baby nuk to the newsstand location and so to make sure it was able to find its place I put a branch in front of it. There's a photograph to tonight we will move both of the other hives. Neither one of them are really putting any honey up in the Super's yet. The Westside North Hive looks good so I took a frame of mixed brewed eggs and food and put it in the small nuk that seems to be suffering. The blue Hive on the northeast side has good population but again no one's putting up and eat nectar to speak of just supplies they need. Again mites look under control so I think I'm going to wait until we return from New York to do my summer treatment, just in case they decide to put up something while we're away. There is some white wax that's been built on the strongest Northwest Hive but other than that nothing really is happening. I'm hoping that by rubbing the beeswax on some of these super frames it will encourage the bees to move up into the Super's. We'll see. I've also planned to do a Mite count on Thursday morning if I can get a new beekeeper out here to work it with me we'll see.

July 13 2018 - Hot!


Boy, oh boy, is it hot. 
I came out to check the hives at 9:30am.  took me an hour to go through all of them. I'm not going to give a hive by hive report just to say that the treatment is still in. It seems to be effective the queens are laying but at a slower rate. 
There was uncapped brood, larvae and capped brood; good supplies but no extra supplies -- maybe half a frame of capped honey in the stronger hives. 
I'm going to start feeding and put on supers with the intention of forcing them to build out foundation. That should mean having extra room for the queens to lay once the treatment winds down and the queen start producing again. 
There'll be no queen excluders. 
I'm taking some frames from the stronger hives and put them into the nuc and bring the nuc out to 10 frames. That will give me five full hives going into the fall. 
I will feed them between now and the time that the goldenrod starts coming in. Hopefully, the bees will store sufficient supplies. 
When the fall comes, I'll push them all back down into their 10 frame boxes. I will merge weaker ones with stronger queens. 
I may try a fall re-queen or I may try to have them raise their own queensm but only if therecare sufficient drones. 
The nature of all these bees is very calm so I think I've got some good stock if I can get some good genetics mixed in. 
The Amitraz is scheduled to be removed on July 23rd. I've got the option to check the hives one more time between now and then. I may wait till next week that'll be the 20th to put on the frames. I'll feed them this week and then put on the supers with some wax strips so they can draw out new comb on everything.

May 17 2018 - Annual Inspection time with Steven Cutts

West Hive - the one that Michele gave me
Even with your cappings and wax you're going to get some gum.
it's not on there looking for a friend with the least amount of bridging in here it's going to be difficult that's a lot of bridging going on. Here they stretched it out here they stretched looking for the frame with the least amount of bridging this is the heart that has everybody out on the front
It looks like she's trying to swarm and we can split this and leave the queen cell that's here and move her to a new box or we could just offer. Well she is that old there she goes okay but she's not lying that well
I moved the frame that have the three Queen sell started on it into the blue Hive. She's probably going to start some other Queen cells keep an eye out for them and you may ha

Small Hive with yellow Queen 
When I open the lime tray today there were lots of larvae crawling around in the lime. I shook the lime. I will ask the inspector what's going on. Some more Cpcapped brood but not a lot, not a solid pattern and we've got a queen cell two queen cells with bees in them see anything in there

Double decker Nuc box
Blue Hive on East with Pippin Queen
Time is money and that's smart. In invert the lid and set the excluder SEPTA super on it. Oh yeah.
one of these more common things that I see one of my more common helpful hands sorry girls everybody tells you don't paint the inside of the box if you don't paint the upper edges of the box you can get wood rot there you don't need to paint the inside but the upper edges and lower cuz of the damp because they're up against Foundation because they're up against Foundation they draw this honey because they're up against Foundation they draw this honey I see when going up against New Foundation that's not drawn and not painted they may draw the other side too seep. The bigger communication holes allow them to go around while staying on the wax instead of going onto the wooden frames Mister pip in this is Miss Anna's and I I've been asked not to have you in our up our inspection we're in the middle of a 10 frame box how you doing easy cut out
Look in the queen cup to see if you see anything but that's okay to leave those cups in there.
No Queen, no eggs. Think about it. But take the Super in the Queen excluder off. What were you thinking

double decker South nuc
Cut larger Corners off of the passageway so that they'll build drone come there and that will give you the Drone cone that you need it should be about 10 to 12 in per hive square inches. I love talkin
On the way of the inspection he's looking for two frames of sealed brood. See queen photo.

More than they'll be okay if you want it

South Hive from Tracy's  old box.
Consider putting in a 1 inch feeder hole at the top with an inverted jar with the whole centered instead of having such a big hole for your mason jar. Nice idea when you got an excluder go above it and pry a way up in a way, if you're going below it pry down and away. Tear over here check your bottom frames to make sure a queen or a little Queen didn't get up there and is laying in your honey super. When you smoke one area smoke the super that you set to the side as well or they'll come back from the backside to get you. Aluminum tape for ductwork is a good way to repair a break in a queen excluder go over and under the area and block off any distorted area. Otherwise, Queen might sneak through. At 1 smoker see outside frame look at the Burke home on the 4th frame and we're. , see the photo of the queen and then on the next frame you'll see a combination of the worker and the Drone together this was on one of those short frames with Burke home along the bottom. When you see the bees lining up along the edge of the frame they're getting ready to come up so give him a touch of smoke to keep them down. Bees prefer to be shaking and brushed for those short frames move them up into a full deep but with a excluder below them after you shaking them off after a couple of weeks clean off the Burke home once they've hatched out.

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Sunday, May 20, 2018

Hive check April 22, 2018


This hive visit I was accompanied by M., a dear-beekeeping, coffee-drinking, secret-confidant friend. All of this report is a result of your help. We saw a beautiful queen in the “abandonded” hive I’ve been working to save, as well as the yellow queen in the hive that she has given me. All in all it was a lovely day. Followed up with organic grape wine spritzer, crackers and cheese. Cheese and crackers got all muddy.

On the East hive (blue brood box), we added a honey super with a queen excluder but we didn't see an impressive wall-to-wall brood pattern. The bees are calm, and we saw all stages of brood. They're bringing in pollen and nectar so this is a good hive.

On the Eastside Nuc: It's building out nicely and doing well. I  might add a second nuc box on top of it next week or so depending upon how things look.

The Yellow Queen (nuc) Hive, was the rehive I nuc’3e with the Yellow Queen. It seems to want to requeen. There were a couple of queen cups but still has an OK brood pattern, just a little spotty. And, it has a lot of drone brood which indicates that she might be failing.

North hive, this was the original box the yellow queen was in but was allowed to requeen. It's building out quite nicely. It may be ready for a queen excluder and super within a week or two.

T.'s hive nuc, I also call the Southside Nuc, had a lovely brood pattern. We moved frames around to checkerboard them and to encourage the build out of foundation. I’ll possibly add a second nuc box on top or rehive to a 10-frame, if they're that strong. This box could use a frame of drawn comb so that the queen has room to lay. Note to self: Look in the freezer.

The Southside Hive had the honey super put on last week. They are already beginning to put nectar up there. None of the frames have been drawn out yet. The brood box still has two or three blanks that have a little bit of foundation drawn out so we moved them around to encourage build out.